Trying something new in Hyalite

Hyalite is our local ice climbing destination and we make sure to get out there on a regular basis.  While it does have one of the highest concentrations of ice routes anywhere, exploring new areas is essential.  Not to be disrespectful of the climbing in Hyalite, but lately the stoke factor isn't what it used to be.  My buddy Keith was feeling the same way and for good reason...  I think seventeen of his nineteen days this year have been in up in Hyalite.  So time to change it up some. Yesterday Keith and I headed up to Twin Falls with the goal of skiing the trees above the climb.  I've climbed Twin a few times before but always early season when it is the only ice formed in the whole canyon.  It seems like that's the norm, as the broken trail ended at Cleo's.  To be honest the last little bit of the approach was probably the crux of the day.  Waist deep snow with ice gear plus a full backcountry set-up meant some hard work was required to reach the base of the ice.  The climb itself went well, though WI3 is more challenging with an extra set of boots and a board on your back!

Afternoon sun over Hyalite

The avalanche forecast wasn't the most confidence inspiring but we figured staying on more mellow slopes would be okay.  It has actually been quite a while since I last dug a pit so doing just that and analyzing the layers was really enjoyable for me. The two feet of snow we received last week was sitting on top of some poorly bonded sugar snow. Not ideal and because of that we stayed down in the trees. While the skiing wasn't incredible we knew it was going to be more of a scouting mission than a full on powderfest.  I'd stay the day was a success though as we were able to explore a new area, refresh our snow science skills, and get in some fun tree skiing.  Next time we'll plan for a whole day and make sure we've got a more stable snowpack!

Can you find the weak layer?

Time to get after it!

      A year ago when this whole idea of an AK climbing trip came into being, Trevor and I were on the same page about it—completely stoked, ready, and willing to share the workload to make Huntington a success. So far, he has done everything right. He has been getting out to climb, working out, getting in shape, and most notably getting a shit-ton of support for us to do this! Sponsorships and grant money were never part of the original plan, but low and behold they’ve been coming out of the woodwork. The American Alpine Club, Black Diamond, Katabatic Gear, Timber Trails, Northern Lights Trading Co, and Kates Real Food are all putting faith in our ability to reach the summit. This level of support is surreal and all of it has been Trevor’s doing.

The West Face of Mt. Huntington, photo cred: cascadeclimbers.com

The extent of my training: trying on
new gear over my clothes ...indoors.
Photo cred: Jane Mulcahy

      My performance, on the other hand, has been abysmal! I’ve been spending the past few months trying to devote my time to graduate school applications and all of the associated rigmarole. As I type, in fact, I am procrastinating the very last application, which is currently hiding in another window on my laptop. I have been biding my time in my apartment, at work, or local coffee shops as I watch my friends get after it with 30+ days of climbing and skiing already under their belts this season. Finally, almost everything is over with—applications, funding, research topics, advisor correspondences, campus visits, etc. The balancing act required to focus on non-climbing life while trying to train at the same time is a problem every climber is familiar with and a topic worthy of many blog posts unto itself. For now I will say that my ability to focus on multiple goals at the same time is apparently non-existent being that I’ve done almost nothing to contribute to the preparation of our trip. Some of my pathetic stats for this winter, pitches climbed: 10 (including indoors!), miles ran: 30 (maybe), days in the gym: 5 (and not for vey long), money raised: $0. If I don’t change my habits drastically and very soon, I am going to die on Huntington this spring (literally).

      So, I bought a membership to our local gym. I’ve started doing my research online (the Gym Jones and Mountain Athlete websites are great resources!). I’ve bought books on training and diet. I am patiently awaiting Steve House’s new book on training for alpine climbing, which is slated to go to press sometime this spring. I am also lucky to have the support of close friends in this endeavor. It's great to have my roommate, Adam, who is also in training for the upcoming rock season and a summer of guiding, that is of course if he stops supplying our snack cupboard with Oreos and freezer with Ben and Jerry’s! Also, my brother, an accomplished climber and newly converted disciple of Crossfit, is giving me a bunch of training advice. The plan is to outline every detail of the next three and a half months to optimize my time and get in the best shape of my life. Will it happen? Can it happen? I don’t know, but I’m damn sure going to try! I owe Trevor 200% effort from here on out.

Excellent training material - Extreme Alipinism by Mark Twight, and CLIMBING: Training for Peak Performance by Clyde Soles. Courtesy of www.mountaineersbooks.org

      This weekend, while Trevor, Adam, and another of our climbing partners, Keith get out for an epic weekend of climbing in the Beartooths, I will stay home, finish my last application, and put together my training schedule. My baseline will be established next week when Trevor and I embark on our first real training trip—5 days of pushing our limits in the Canadian Rockies. We have a lot of ambitious goals. It will be interesting to see what we can accomplish.

Mixed Master, Canadian Rockies, photo cred: cascadeclimbers.com

      With that, so it begins (for me, anyway). My stoke has been building to an all-time high… it is officially time to get after it!